Written for UK homes, UK rules and UK prices

Independent advice · No sales pitch · No call-backs

Moving or fitting a gas hob (and other gas appliance work)

People move or swap a gas hob for all sorts of reasons: a kitchen refit, a switch to induction, or simply because the old one has stopped working. Plenty of the job is yours to do. The gas connection isn’t.

Gas is the one job where being handy isn’t enough. The law says anyone working on gas must be a registered engineer, and a small mistake can cause a leak, a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning.

Guide · The Honest Fix

HIRE

Hire. Gas work is legally a Gas Safe engineer’s job.

Skill levelGas Safe registered engineer
Time on site1–2 hours like-for-like, half a day to a full day to move the supply
Typical pro cost£80–£180 like-for-like, £200–£500+ to move the supply (hob extra)

The short version

  • Any work on gas, including disconnecting or connecting a hob, must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer.
  • You can choose the hob, measure up, clear the space and cut the worktop.
  • Moving the hob costs more than a like-for-like swap, because the pipework has to move too.
  • Check the engineer’s Gas Safe ID card and look them up on the register.
  • If you smell gas, call 0800 111 999 and get out.
Photo to come: a Gas Safe ID card (details blurred)

The law

Gas Safe registration is a legal requirement

  • Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, nobody may work on gas fittings unless they’re competent, and anyone doing gas work as a business must be on the Gas Safe Register. In practice, any work on your hob, pipework or other gas appliances needs a Gas Safe registered engineer.
  • That covers disconnecting or reconnecting a hob, moving or extending the gas supply, and fitting any gas appliance.
  • Northern Ireland has its own gas safety regulations but uses the same Gas Safe Register, so the same advice applies.

What you can do yourself

  • Choose the hob. Check the cut-out size in the manufacturer’s instructions against your worktop and the cupboard below.
  • Check the clearances. Every hob comes with minimum clearances to side walls, wall units, curtains and the cooker hood, and the hob and hood manuals always take priority. Check them before you buy, so the engineer doesn’t refuse to connect it.
  • Decide on the position before you book the engineer, so the quote is for the right job.
  • Clear the cupboards under and around the hob, so the engineer can get to the pipework and isolation valve.
  • Do the worktop cut-out if you’re confident with a jigsaw. Our guide to fitting a kitchen worktop covers measuring and cutting.
Photo to come: a hob cut-out in a worktop

What the engineer does

  1. Isolates the gas supply before disconnecting anything.
  2. Makes the connection. Built-in hobs are usually connected with rigid pipework, or with an approved flexible hose only where the manufacturer allows it. The engineer follows the hob manual.
  3. Reroutes the pipework if the hob is moving.
  4. Carries out a tightness test to make sure there are no leaks in the installation.
  5. Checks the hob works properly, including the burners, flame picture and any safety devices.
  6. Gives you a record of the work. Fitting a gas hob isn’t usually notifiable under the Building Regulations in the way a new boiler is. Ask the engineer for a written record of the work, including the tightness test result, and keep it with your home’s paperwork.
Photo to come: the gas isolation valve on the supply to the hob

Moving the hob or swapping like-for-like?

A like-for-like swap, with the new hob in the same place, is the quickest and cheapest version of the job. The engineer disconnects the old hob, connects the new one to the existing supply and tests it.

Moving the hob means moving the gas supply too. That can mean new pipework, lifting floorboards or running pipe through cupboards, so it costs more and takes longer.

Swapping one gas hob for another on the existing supply usually takes 1–2 hours. Moving the supply usually takes half a day to a full day, or longer if floors need lifting or walls chasing.

Connecting a new hob like-for-like typically costs £80–£180 in labour. Moving the gas supply typically costs £200–£500, or more for long runs or chasing walls. These prices don’t include the hob.

Swapping gas for induction

If you’re going electric, a Gas Safe engineer needs to disconnect the gas hob and safely cap off the supply.

Induction hobs usually need a dedicated cooker circuit, which is a job for an electrician. If switching to induction needs a new cooker circuit, that’s notifiable electrical work in England, so use a registered electrician who can self-certify. Wales has its own, stricter rules, and Scotland uses building warrants instead. Your electrician will know what applies.

Other gas appliances

The same rule applies to every gas appliance in the home. Gas fires, boilers, cookers and water heaters always need a Gas Safe engineer, whether you’re fitting, moving, servicing or removing them.


How to hire the right engineer

  • Ask to see their Gas Safe ID card. It shows their photo and licence number. On the back of the card, look for the ‘Cooker’ category, which covers hobs. Range cookers need the separate ‘Range Cookers’ category. Check whether the card says natural gas or LPG, to match your supply.
  • Check them on the register. Check the engineer on the Gas Safe Register website using the licence number on their card, or call 0800 408 5500.
  • Get a written quote that says what’s included, such as any pipework and testing.
  • Pay a small deposit at most, with the balance when the job is finished and tested.

Warning signs

  • No Gas Safe ID card, or they won’t show it
  • “My mate’s registered, he’ll sign it off”
  • Cash only
  • Wanting full payment upfront
  • Saying no test is needed

DIY or Hire?

DIYHire a Gas Safe engineer
Choosing the hobDisconnecting the old hob
Measuring and checking clearancesConnecting the new hob
Clearing the cupboardsMoving or extending the gas pipe
Cutting the worktopCapping the gas for induction
Testing the installation

In short: you can do everything up to the gas pipe. Anything that touches gas is for a registered engineer.

Stop here: call a pro if…

  • The flame is yellow, orange or lazy rather than crisp and blue
  • There’s soot or staining around the hob or appliance
  • Your carbon monoxide alarm goes off
  • Your hob was fitted by someone who isn’t Gas Safe registered
  • You want any gas pipe moved
Photo to come: a healthy blue flame next to a yellow, lazy flame

Carbon monoxide

Know the signs

  • Carbon monoxide (CO) has no colour, taste or smell. It comes from gas appliances that aren’t burning properly.
  • Symptoms include headaches, dizziness, nausea, breathlessness, tiredness and confusion. They can feel like flu without a temperature, and often ease when you leave the house.
  • If you suspect CO poisoning, get into fresh air, turn off the appliance if it’s safe to do so, and get medical help.
  • If you rent your home out, a Gas Safe engineer must carry out a gas safety check every year, and the tenant gets a copy of the record. Carbon monoxide alarm rules differ between England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland, so check the current guidance for where you live. Wherever you are, a CO alarm near gas appliances is cheap and worth having.

FAQs

Can I connect a gas hob myself if I’m careful?

No. In Great Britain it’s illegal for anyone who isn’t Gas Safe registered to work on gas, however careful they are.

Can I disconnect the old hob myself before the engineer arrives?

No. Disconnecting is gas work too. Leave it connected and let the engineer do it.

Can my kitchen fitter connect the hob?

Only if they’re Gas Safe registered for that type of work. Ask to see their card and check the back.

Do I need a new electrical circuit for an induction hob?

Usually, yes. Most induction hobs need a dedicated cooker circuit. Ask an electrician to check before you buy.

How do I check an engineer is really registered?

Look them up on the Gas Safe Register website or call the register, using the licence number on their ID card.

Written by Richard Anslow. Richard is a handyman in Aylesbury with around 20 years in the trade. He runs TradesPro and lives on a narrowboat, NB Wagtail.